To the west of Graham Robert's Connemara Smokehouse, housed in a fine stone building at the edge of Bunowen Pier, in West Connemara, there is the Atlantic Ocean, and nothing else. A place so nakedly elemental is just the right place for a great fish smoker like Graham Roberts to weave his magic with smoked fish. Mr Roberts is forever chasing the essence of flavour in his smoked fish, and the flavour he chases is the pure flavour, the unadorned flavour, the pure drop. The beech wood he uses for smoking, in the 1946 smoking kiln he uses, allows for more subtlety than smoking with oak, so the Connemara Smokehouse products are blessed with a grace and subtlety, an elusiveness, the merest whisper of beech smoke. And there are no shortcuts taken in this smokehouse: everything is done old school, by hand, by intuition, by experience. The good news is that the Smokehouse is also an Economusée, so you can visit and see the artisan process as it plays out, from the hand filleting to the expert smoking to the packing. And when you do visit, you will take away a picture of an artisan fish smokery at the end of the world, in the most elemental place imaginable.
More along the Galway coast
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