Cormac Cronin is a great restaurateur.
That’s partly because he understands food, of course, but it’s also because he understands fun. And he knows how the conjoining of food and fun makes our neural pathways go doolalley whenever we find great food in a great room, and that is what he creates every day in Bodega!
Chef Malcolm Starmer folows Mr Cronin’s locavore ethos to a T, and he brings to that ethos a prodigious talent and a technique honed in cut-above destinations in London and Dublin. His menus celebrate the Waterford cornucopiua – Dunmore East salt cod fishcakes; Tom Cleary’s golden beets with St Tola goat’s cheese; black sole on the bone with dilisk butter; O’Flynn’s pork belly with colcannon; Applemarket burger with Knockanore smoked cheese and Grantstown tomato chutney; chocolate ganache with honeycomb shards. This is exciting, contemporary cooking that is the equivalent of a big, culinary hug, and you can never tire of it.
What you also never tire of, of course, is the fact that Bodega! is one of the great Irish restaurant rooms. Always raucous, always fun, a place to celebrate whether you are two, or ten, in number. Excellent cocktails and great wines complete the picture of a great chef in a great restaurant, and a great restaurateur.
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