The question everyone asks about Waterford’s Bodega! is this: does any other room enjoy the sort of wild energy that seems to be inscribed in the DNA of this restaurant?
The answer is: no. Bodega stands alone. It’s the restaurant equivalent of one of their signature cocktails: riotous, colourful, alluring, clamorous. It’s the room you want to be in, the action you want to be in on, the conversation you want to join. It’s a blast. And whilst many of us would have thought it impossible to ratchet Bodega! up another gear or so, along comes chef Malcolm Starmer and he does just that, knocking out the most superb cooking and sending everyone straight to Cloud Nine. Mr Starmer's sterling work is helped by superb sourcing and, with such ace ingredients to work with, Mr Starmer doesn’t mess about, and nails the flavours and textures with professional brilliance: salt cod fish cakes with pepperonata; seaweed-cured smoked salmon with melon and radish; baked haddock with peas and cockles; pecan pie with bitter chocolate sauce. The dishes have the energy and brightness of the room, and are served by a superlative team. Put this food in this room, and you have: Bodega! The one and only.
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