Great cooking acknowledges culinary history, at the same time that it moves that history forward. It acknowledges a sense of place and origin, whilst always looking out for the next new inspiration. And great cooking acknowledges the tradition of the kitchen and the dining room, whilst drawing its originality from an iconoclastic energy. Jenny Flynn unites all these contradictions with her lovely cooking in Faithlegg House Hotel. She tempers her modern impulses so that her plating chimes with the elegance of the Roseville Rooms. She is loyal to her local artisan producers, whilst also giving a shout-out to the artisans from her native Wexford. And she cooks within the tradition, and at the same time gives every dish her own swerve: scallops with black pudding dust; Thin Gin cured salmon with yogurt remoulade; Granagh pork with apricot sausage roll; Angus beef with bone marrow jus. The food is serene, yet punky, and it is quite simply lovely.
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