We know comparisons are odious but, for us, the subtle savouriness that characterises Wade Murphy’s cooking in 1826 brings to mind the work of the great Belfast master, Paul Rankin, of Roscoff Restaurant. Like Rankin, Murphy brings a deftness and distinctiveness to every dish, from the unctuousness of 36-hour pork belly with creamed cabbage, to the zinging brick-fried chicken with Asian slaw, to the sea-salty mix of oven-baked organic salmon with clams and mussels. He is a cook who shows that he knows when enough is enough, which means there is no more on each plate than is needed, and the courses glide from punchy starters to satisfyingly narcotic sugar confections for dessert, faultless and seemingly effortless all the way. The room is comfortable and homey, and Elaine Murphy runs it with sweet authority.
More along the Limerick coast
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