Paul Williams brings to Canteen, newly relocated to a handsome, bright room on Catherine Street, exactly what it needs, and no more. He is a supremely intelligent restaurateur, a guy who brought home all the lessons he learnt at restaurants like The Fat Duck, then simplified them, then improved them. If Heston could see what Paul is doing now, he would be filled with envy, and seasoned restaurateurs adore Canteen, adore its smarts and its lean modus operandi. The focus is on the food, and the food is ace: sublime fish taco; falafel wrap with parsley hummus; chickpea stew with honey and pomegranate; gobi chicken curry with brown rice; green eggs and ham for brunch. Brilliant drinks, brilliant vibes, and a ground-breaking destination.
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