Order up Canteen’s signature lemony pork and beef meatballs, cooked in a plum tomato sauce with herbs and served super slaw, labneh and sumac, and you will have to have to travel manys a mile to find something tastier and smarter than this classic offering: the Canteen meatballs are as good as a fast lunch dish gets.
Paul Williams has spent time in serious, starry kitchens, but his Canteen career has all been about subtracting, rather than adding, anything gratuitous to his food offer. The room has that lean, modern look; coffee comes black, or milk, with only a mocha offering a choice; and the focus here is on getting every detail right, from the egg pots – don’t miss the spinach and Comté – to the green eggs and ham, to the sausage and bacon sourdough sarnie which pair’s Crowe’s Farm bacon and bangers with Riot Rye sourdough to make a sandwich for the gods.
Having made fancy food in his time, Mr Williams now makes food that people not only want to eat: he makes food that you crave, and he brings it on, with masterly dishes like the confit lamb wrap, and the fish finger lunch box, and the sweet potato satay. canteen is a trailblazer, and Mr Williams has been a shining star for other Irish chfs who have decided that cooking from the heart, cooking the food you love and love to eat yourself, is the smart career choice for an ambitious cook. Simple. Perfect.
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