Dervla Conlon cooks and bakes like an artist, and plates her dishes like a painter finishing the brushstrokes of a still life. When the food arrives at your table in Pudding Row, a pretty room upstairs on little Easky’s little Main Street, take time to admire its Vermeer-like composition, and its vivid, Yeatsian use of colour, contrast and depth. Every morsel that arrives from the kitchen announces her painterly eye, and painstaking perfectionism: Achill sea salt shortbreads; beef stew with barley and herbs; the pitch-perfect crust and crumb of a still-warm batch loaf; the creamy congregation of doughnuts bosomy with cream and dusted sugar. Ms Conlon’s cooking defines the best type of modern Irish food: soulful; deeply rooted, tactile and personal.
More along the Sligo coast
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