The critic Edward Said has identified an artistic phase that he calls lateness, the window of activity at a late stage in a creative career when a person produces work of defining energy. Martin Bealin is at that stage in his career now, enjoying a time when his culinary confidence and his philosophy of cooking have perfectly married. This means that every plate the chef sends out in the warm, welcoming space of Global Village is utterly right, logical, delicious. He culls his ingredients from his garden, from his townland, from his county, and creates a plate of West Kerry lamb with barley risotto, and pristine hake with Castlegregory chorizo, and sweet Dingle Bay prawns with garden pak choi, and the flavours define the chef’s skill, and the chef's region.
More along the Kerry coast
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