Brook Lane Hotel
Would it surprise you to learn that we think the hotel with the best cooking in Kenmare, County Kerry, is the Brook Lane Hotel?
Kenmare has lots of distinguished places to stay, of course. The Brook Lane isn’t amongst the best known addresses in town, but Una and Dermot Brennan have been doing the good thing quietly and efficiently here for many years now. On a recent visit, both breakfast and dinner showed a kitchen that not only cooked fine food, but cooked some outstanding food. Braised rib of Hereford beef was worthy of Dublin’s Chapter One or Kilkenny’s Campagne, super savoury cooking that had both finesse and elan, with colcannon offsetting the beef and crispy leeks and a purée of parsnip haloing the superb meat. It was even better than a starter of Kenmare smoked salmon with Billy Clifford’s organic leaves and a blood orange and caper salad, which is saying something. The team at front of house and in the restaurant are true Kenmare professionals – witty, warm and welcoming – and the brook lane is special.
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More along the Kerry coast
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