Wade Murphy cooks like he’s a soccer player lining out with Barcelona: his food is all tick-tock delicacy, feints and switches, surprises and subtleties. Superficially, his menus seem straight-ahead: ham hock croquette; breast of chicken; beef short rib; monkfish scampi; lemon meringue pie. But what Mr Murphy does is to take these staple creations apart, then reassemble them. So baked scallops have a brilliant black pudding granola, a subtle twist on a classic pairing; smoked pork chop has a Longueville House cider mustard; the lemon meringue pie has a slick lemon curd parfait and Italian meringue. It’s delighting cooking, as delighting as the relaxed cottage room where Elaine Murphy runs the show with consummate ease. Value is very keen, and there are some artful vegetarian choices.
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