Paul Williams is moving his restaurant, Canteen, around the corner from its original home on Mallow Street, in Limerick city. Many of us will miss the little shoebox space in which Mr Williams first weaved his magic, for the disconnect between the fantastic food, served in a box on a plastic tray, and the bedsit-land chic of the wee room, was one of the most fun experiences in Irish food. But what won’t change is Mr Williams’ self-critical and unerring focus on his ingredients, and the assured completeness of his finished dishes: sublime fish taco; felafel wrap with parsley hummus; chickpea stew with honey and pomegranate; gobi chicken curry with brown rice; green eggs and ham for brunch. Canteen is a pivotal and important restaurant, and Mr Williams is one of the best.
More along the Limerick coast
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