The Tao of The Tannery - Eamon Barrett pulls up a stool

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Back in 1997, when our home was nearing completion, Julie and I were in a furniture store in South Dublin called Enclosure looking at tables we hadn't yet come to terms with not being able to afford. The assistant was taking some details to send us on a brochure and on hearing that we lived in Waterford, told us about a new restaurant that was opening in Waterford that they had just supplied tables and chairs to. 'It's going to be called The Tannery', she said 'and it sounds like it's going to amazing'. True story.

Amazing is a good word to describe The Tannery. Amazing food, amazing rooms, and an amazing cookery school - all created using the same guiding principles of excellence that have been the hallmarks of Paul and Maire Flynn's endeavours in Dungarvan. Now that same sure footedness has seen an amazing transformation of the downstairs waiting area into a super casual wine bar that offers quite stunning value. No reservations are needed, it's just walk in, take a seat and start eating. And eat we did. Using our two - not uncoperative - nephews as additional critics we managed to sample the majority of the menu.

Crab on toast, mushrooms and Parmesan on toast, gravadlax and herb cream on toast - all of these priced between €4.00 and €6.00. We tried chorizo croquettes and some smoked chicken croquettes, again €4.50. A very generous charcuterie board with cheese and olives would have been plenty for two people at €12.00. The printed menu is supplemented by a blackboard of specials: Lamb carpaccio with crispy sweetbreads and a parsley and shallot salad was absolutely beautiful food. I could have eaten a bucket of the confit chicken thighs with lemon, rosemary and aoili. There are some simple desserts - sticky orange cake, lemon crumble, chocolate crumble - priced at €4.00 or the option of choosing from the main restaurant menu. Of course there's a good selection of wines by the glass but if you're in the mood for a cocktail, the gingerbread daiquiri went down very well with one of our group.