When Imelda Tynan starts to talk about pastry, she speaks as if channeling a higher order. Her language is rapturous, immersed, bewitched. All of a sudden Ms Tynan ceases to be the boss of the hugely busy Tynan’s Restaurant, in The Store Yard, in Portlaoise, and she becomes an apostle, an acolyte, a true believer in the deliciousness of good things. But you don’t just need to listen to Imelda. The proof of the pudding, have no doubt, is in the eating.
There was a time, not so long ago, when if you were interested in Irish beers and spirits, it was still okay to be an amateur. You know: someone with a keen interest, who sorta knew what was going on, read the weekend papers, the magazines, liked trying new things at the weekend.
The recent history of Irish restaurants and places to drink suggests that being in the right zone is as important as doing the right thing.
Eating zones have been created in places as small as Dublin’s Fade Street, and as big as Galway’s West End, or the strip between the canal at Portobello all the way down to Dame Street in Dublin, currently Dublin’s restaurant city.
And you will find the same equivalent of culinary critical mass on Capel Street, and in Belfast’s Cathedral Quarter.
When I heard that Gerry White had launched a new gin in his native Belfast, I never doubted it would be a success. When Gerry does something, he “does it right”, and I knew he would have the support of the hospitality community in Northern Ireland of which he has been a key player for years.
When we hosted a recent seafood and seaweed weekend at Renvyle House in Connemara, two particular moments stood out during a brilliant weekend.
The first was a brand new creation by chef Tim O’Sullivan, who served Renvyle lamb rack with scallops and a carrageen dressing. Lamb and clams we know of, but the pairing of scallops with the lamb, and the brilliant carrageen dressing, was the sort of new concept that proves the truth of the ancient saying, that the discovery of a new dish does more for human happiness than the discovery of a star.
Aisling Butler speaks food.
The chef in Cong’s pretty Hungry Monk Café speaks food volubly, speedily, devotedly, fluently.
Dublin has met Dingle in this little joint. Goat Street Social is possibly the most hipster eatery within the kingdom of Dingle.
Cleverly situated in an old-style building, there is an emphasis on everything being blue within its old-school ambience. Playful decor – ranging from funny faces drawn on milk cartons, to a reproduction of a Banksy in the more spacious light and airy upstairs section – creates a lightheartedness, and conspires to create a laid-back and contented atmosphere: most of the diners are smiling even before the food is served.
Jonathan Keane has arrived.
In truth, Mr Keane booked his ticket to the arrival venue years ago, when he first began to attract attention, as the chef in Westport’s Mill Race Hotel.
From there he moved to Lisloughrey Lodge, the Manor House of Ashford Castle, in Cong, County Mayo. When Ashford was bought over, they rechristened the house The Lodge, and Wilde’s Restaurant is the upstairs dining room.
His food was always ambitious, always striving, but in fact it was over-ambitious. That’s no problem: that's the sort of thing hungry young chefs do. They try too hard.
Quietly, steadily, surely, Anocht is arriving as a major dining destination in Kilkenny.
“Well, such promise”, wrote one friend after enjoying dinner upstairs in the old grain stors of the earl of Ormond’s stables. And Caroline Hennesssy, of McKennas’ Guides, picked Anocht in a list of a dozen places where she had a “memorable food experience” in 2016.
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