The Winding Stair
There are lots of modern restaurants where your food is served by polite and deferential chaps wearing smart aprons. The dudes in The Winding Stair have the smart aprons all right, but don’t be expecting any deference from these guys: these blokes have the attitude, and TWS is all the better for their lively Dublin wit and banter. In fact, their wit underscores the charm of this Dublin classic and, as it heads towards its tenth birthday, the 'Stair is as raucous, upbeat, noisy and genre-breaking as it ever was, and the grub is super-tasty: cockles and mussels with brown shrimp toast and chips; rosé veal with crushed potatoes and crispy egg; truffle-baked polenta with Cavanbert cheese; the classic smoked haddock poached in milk with white Cheddar mash. Great wines, and mighty, mighty craic.
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