If you had to sum up Elaine Murphy’s restaurant mantra, it might be: “Simple things, done beautifully”. The food in her restaurants is always unpretentious, and well-rooted, and her newest venture, The Washerwoman in Glasnevin, carries on with the mantra that has served her so well in Dublin city centre, where she runs both The Winding Stair and The Woollen Mills. Just look, for example, at the slow-roasted tomato served with their bacon butty. The tomato is cooked until its sweetness is exemplified, and thus it contributes mightily to the butty. That detail shows a team who care, because under-cooked tomatoes are the left-on-the-plate norm in so many Irish places to eat.
The care in the cooking reflects the care in the sourcing, and the very best artisan foods are here – Young Buck cheese; Ballinwillin wild boar; Butterly’s fish; Goatsbridge trout; Pat McLoughlin’s smoked sirloin. Put these lovely things on a plate in these lovely rooms, and you have a very happy Glasnevin restaurant.
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