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Variety Jones

All the best places to eat, shop and stay in Ireland. A local guide to local places.

The fact that chef-patron Keelan Higgs puts a monthly date on his one page wine list gives you some idea of the particularity that this chef is chasing. Higgs wants to be inspired by what is coming in the door of Variety Jones, a lean, long, constructivist-styled room on Thomas Street, and he’s chasing a purity both in his food and in the wines selected by sommelier Vanda Ivancic. Mr Higgs has already created Dublin’s best cauliflower dish – roasted and crunchy, with sea trout and burnt yeast emulsion –  thought up one of the best riffs on chicken liver pate – served with sweet and sour onions and fadge – and cooking over flame suits the family style dishes such as venison with hearth-roasted celeriac, and hearth-grilled sole. Brother Aaron looks after the room, and Variety Jones is a big event for Thomas Street.

78 Thomas Street, Merchants Quay, Dublin 8

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