Is there any other dish as perfect as Uno Mas’ flan de queso? In colour, texture, taste and appearance it is perfect in an unworldly way. Pooled in a sweet jus, surrounded by an ocean of white plate, it is a flying saucer of utter deliciousness, transcendent in every way. Its perfection shows the rigor and restraint that are the modus operandi of restaurateurs Liz Matthews and Simon Barrett. Having created a perfect template of regional Italian food in Etto, they set out to do the same for Spanish regional dishes in Uno Mas. The result is a disciplined striving for perfection, from crisp, agrestic piquillo peppers to perfect salt cod croquettas, from cod with nduja and borlotti beans to lamb belly with the world’s best roast carrot. The wines and – in particular – the sherries are superlative, and the staff are chatty, funny and wise.
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