Matt Davis is cooking some ace food in The Universal. The room, in Galway’s Westend, is one of those softly lit and welcoming bars, culled straight from an Edward Hopper canvas, and what is noteworthy about the Uni is the fact that is packed with locals, who all behave like regulars, quite a surprise in such a touristy city. One bite of Mr Davis’s grub, and you know why people come back: the fried chicken with tonkatsu sauce is all crunch and crackle; the Castlemine Farm lamb chops with aubergine and hazelnut yogurt are lip lickin’ tasty, the local meat given just the right sort of flavour foils, and roasted uchika kuri squash dahl is subtle and deft vegetarian cooking. Great drinks, cool Galway staff – of course –and yet another hot Westend destination.
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