Three years down the line, and Two Cooks is firmly established as one of Kildare’s culinary destinations, with a trove of trophies garnered for their mantlepiece. Josef and Nicola cover all the bases – he as chef, she as manager – and the assurance and polish of the operation is mighty. Mr Zammit’s cooking is cool, technically confident and full of intriguing combinations – scallop with ox tongue and buckwheat; mussels with tuna mayonnaise; brill with chervil root; pork belly with romanesco – and the kitchen combines real inventiveness with a sense of enjoyment. Value for money is very keen for such adept cooking, and there are ace snacks – duck carnitas; truffle and Parmesan fries; lamb kofta; spicy chicken wings – in the wine bar for those who seek something simpler.
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