Whilst Aniar is Jp McMahon’s starry culinary citadel in Galway, and Cava his funky Iberian home-from-home, Tartare, his third and newest venture, may be – just may be – his masterpiece. It’s a radical little room, with a hip-hop soundtrack, and it upends expectations in every unexpected way. It’s described as a café and wine bar, but the cooking is 4 star in every way, offering pristine renditions of staple dishes – oysters with sea lettuce; beef tartare with smoked egg; potatoes with sea herb butter; beef cheek with smoked black pudding; raw milk mousse with malted purée – and all the time coaxing from the ingredients the most profound expression of flavour. A hard-workin’ crew of four prep, cook, serve and pour, and Tartare is as radical as Irish eating gets in 2019.
More along the Galway coast
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