Whilst Aniar is Jp McMahon’s starry culinary citadel in Galway, and Cava his funky Iberian home-from-home, Tartare, his third and newest venture, may be – just may be – his masterpiece. It’s a radical little room, with a hip-hop soundtrack, and it upends expectations in every unexpected way. It’s described as a café and wine bar, but the cooking is 4 star in every way, offering pristine renditions of staple dishes – oysters with sea lettuce; beef tartare with smoked egg; potatoes with sea herb butter; beef cheek with smoked black pudding; raw milk mousse with malted purée – and all the time coaxing from the ingredients the most profound expression of flavour. A hard-workin’ crew of four prep, cook, serve and pour, and Tartare is as radical as Irish eating gets in 2019.
NEW! Ireland the Best 100 Places
Hardback, out October 2019
John and Sally McKenna have selected 100 extraordinary Places throughout Ireland that epitomize what is unique and entrancing about the beautiful island of Ireland.
More along the Galway coast
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