In Solas, the food offer is red-hot-good; the prawns with chickpeas; the stunning chowder croquette; pork belly with an apple and lime tartare that is worth the trip to Dingle all on its own. But Anne and Nicky also get another key element of small plates right: the food arrives in a congregation of plates, pretty much all at the same time after you have begun dinner with excellent Bacus breads and wowee! good olives. Small plates are all about sharing, and you need a congregation of tastes and textures, not a procession of flavours. Timing, and tastes, all work together in Solas, and the impact is simply stunning: everyone wants to be in this room. Nicky’s cooking pays due respect to the Spanish foundations of the small plates – octopus; chorizo and manchego; beetroot with sherry and orange; monkfish with romanesco – but it’s his swerves with the traditions that yield the true gold: a toffee parsnip purée with pork; that magnificent seafood chowder croquette; Dingle gin marinated fennel with tomato and ricotta. It’s enlightening also to see how well local foods integrate into the concept of these plates: Bacus breads; West Kerry strip-loin; Maharees potatoes and beetroot; local greens. The room itself is simple, energised, and Ann and her crew have that Dingle work ethic that pulls all the magical strands of Solas together.
NEW! Ireland the Best 100 Places
Hardback, out October 2019
John and Sally McKenna have selected 100 extraordinary Places throughout Ireland that epitomize what is unique and entrancing about the beautiful island of Ireland.
More along the Kerry coast
Megabites Sign Up Here!
Sign up for our Megabites Newsletter, a blog which brings you all the latest contemporary news of the best food and food people in Ireland, including all that’s new on the Wild Atlantic Way.