The Sheridan brothers, Kevin and Seamus, are amongst the most respected people in the world of Irish food. They are players – food players, political players, intellectual players, social players – in addition to being the best cheesemongers Ireland has ever had, and makers of the world's greatest crackers. They are also fun – we have been in the audience as Seamus Sheridan has reduced an entire tent full of people to helpless tears of laughter, talking about jam, and the GAA, and Protestant food.
Together, the brothers Sheridan conduit the culture they have absorbed during a pair of interesting, diverse and quixotic lives. There is milk in their blood, and they are Yin and Yang, interacting opposites, fire and water. There is an air of improvisation about them – you never quite know what thy might do next, or say next, save that they never papse into cliché. This sense of being in the moment leads interesting people to be drawn to them: Sheridan's have always had the coolest staff imaginable in their shops.
Their annual food fair hooley at their headquarters in County Meath is one of the best food days in the culinary calendar. Kevin Sheridan says: “People just need to think about food”. Truthfully, they need to think about food in the way in which Kevin Sheridan thinks about food: deeply; wisely; politically; reverently. Seamus Sheridan has said that if he didn't sell cheese, he would be a park attendant in St Stephen's Green, though at the present moment it might seem that a political career is fermenting, and to be honest we are watching that with bated breath. Can't wait.
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