Whilst chef-patron Kevin Aherne is best-known for Sage Restaurant, where he practices a particularly successful and resonant culinary philosophy of 12-mile radius locavore eating, he also finds time to head up the informal Greenroom, in the courtyard just behind Sage. Here, his formidable, precise techniques bring benediction to perennial old war horses such as chicken wings with blue cheese ranch sauce, or beef lasagna served with garlic bread. The finesse of the kitchen lifts these staples far above what one has a right to expect. In Sage, meantime, he takes the best foods of East Cork and ennobles them – you won’t find a better black pudding anywhere in Ireland – and the confluence of top-class ingredients and peerless technique makes for formidably fine eating.
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