Gordon Smyth is a filigree cook. His dishes, from lamb fritters to chocolate fondant, are poised, colourful, packed with flavour and, above all, they are precisely executed.
In fact, you see Mr Smyths jeweller’s-like attention to detail as soon as dinner begins in the classy surrounds of the water’s Edge Restaurant in the Redcastle Hotel, just south of Moville, in County Donegal. as some red onion ciabatta and fresh soda muffins are placed on the table. The ciabatta is filigreed with the onion crescents, the muffins dusted with oat flakes. Delightful.
Acute attention to detail powers every dish, from superb lamb fritters with gribiche, to the most incredibly flavourful scallops. Mr Smyth’s strength with seafood is seen again with pitch-perfect pan fried cod, the fish translucent pearly white, the Puy lentils and the crispy crunch of chicken wings judged just right.
Great front of house staff are right on their game, the gins are good, the wines include some fine bottles, whilst the views across Lough Foyle are transcendent. Mr Smyth and his crew are crafting beautiful culinary art here in Redcastle, with an horlogier’s attention to detail, and it makes for an essential Donegal destination, classy place to stay.
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More along the Donegal coast
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