An Port Mor
Frankie Mallon’s cooking is pure charm. His dishes have an appealing sweetness, and an ability to find unlikely pairings that makes them sure-fire hits. He fashions swerves of flavour in his classic salad of pot-roasted pig cheeks with Kelly’s black pudding and apple and vanilla sauce, and makes an intriguing liaison of duck breast with oxtail croquette and onion purée. His dishes are democratic, with the ingredients sharing centre-stage with each other, rather than showcasing a main ingredient with supporting roles for the starches. The dishes are tactile and engaging and – if it doesn’t sound crazy – they are amiable: An Port Mor offers friendly food, food that is amiable to the appetite, and generously light on the wallet. Mr Mallon has also assembled an amiable team who echo the boss’s ethos of hard work and good fun, so everyone works with a smile.
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