An Port Mor
Frankie Mallon’s cooking doesn’t do styles, or fads, or the-latest-thing-from-New-York. When he cooks, you get the impression that he is cooking for himself. He likes to arrange beautifully curated foods on the plate, packed with sweet tastes – pork cheeks; lobster; a crab crust on cod; sweet Mayo lamb – and this signature style makes his food fun to eat, easy to enjoy. The restaurant is a series of narrow rooms presided over by genial staff whose amiability suggests that working in An Port Mor is part of who they are, not part of what they do. It doesn’t feel like a restaurant: it feels like someone’s home. And Mr Mallon doesn’t cook like the standard-issue chef: he’s aiming to comfort and please you with every plate that comes from the kitchen.
More along the Mayo coast
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