Sunil Ghai is one of that tiny handful of chefs who have managed to entirely change how people think about ethnic food.
Before Mr Ghai arrived in Dublin and began to wow! everyone with his finessed, detailed, culturally resonant ethnic food, most Irish people assumed Indian cooking was simply a one-sauce-fits-all cuisine. But Mr Ghai changed that. He showed the complexities, technique and secrets of Indian food, and unveiled its peacock’s tail of colours, flavours, tastes and scents to a – delighted – Dublin audience. And when he opened Pickle, with his partner Benny Jacob, Mr Ghai also changed how Indian restaurants looked, for here was a modern, unpretentious and comfortable space in which to enjoy thrilling cooking.
So, don’t think of Pickle as being a superb ethnic restaurant, because it is much more than that. It is a superb modern restaurant, full stop, and one of the best places to eat in the capital.
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