Aged 14, Fiona Teehan, who runs the elegant Pembroke Lodge in Ballsbridge, asked if her birthday present could be lunch at Dublin’s Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud. She wanted to cook, but the career guidance folk told her she was too smart for the kitchen, so she studied hotel management in Cathal Brugha Street. Today, in Pembroke Townhouse, after a career that has taken her from The Connaught in London, to Luttrellstown Castle in Dublin, and thence to this beautiful Georgian house, Ms Teehan has found a way to return to her love of food. She has fashioned a breakfast offer im Pembroke that is as fine as any in the city, and every time we return – and we return often – it seems to have gotten even better. In particular, it is the little handmade treats for guests that make Pembroke stand out, and which show the sort of bespoke care at which Ms Teehan excels: a little glass of homemade cordial when you arrive; delicious biscuits with tea; fabulous handmade preserves with breakfast. These are her people-pleasing potions, for she loves looking after guests, as do all of her team, and they are part of the spell of Pembroke. Don’t even try to resist.
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