As befits an osteria, there is nothing radically new on the menu at Osteria Lucio. Italian osteria cookery is more about dialect – about accent, ohrasing, emphasis – than about language. The language is understood – cicchetti; pastas; salumi; pizzas; fritto misto; arancini; affogato. It's how you phrase the cooking, how you accent it, where you place the stress, that counts. And on that score, Osteria Lucio speak with a plangent, Pavarotti-clear voice: wood-roasted olives with orange peel, fennel and rosemary; subtle arancini with radicchio and gorgonzola; fritto misto of broccoli, asparagus, squid, white fish, and a super agrodolce sauce of honey and vinegar; ricotta gnocchi with tomato and spinach; lamb and mint tagliatelle with Pecorino. This is clean, lovely cooking, and you could eat it every day of the week. Great staff, and keen pricing.
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