Bruce Mulcahy’s cooking has always been somewhat punkish. But today, after two decades in Kenmare, his food is not afraid to show the classical antecedents that framed the punky mohican. His veal cheek ravioli would thrill you if you ate it in a Ligurian enoteca. His beef tartare with tarragon purée and toasted sourdough would make Fernand Point smile. Crab with avocado, lime yogurt and wood sorrel is dreamy and beautiful to behold; beef Wellington is perfectly served as a dome-shaped dome for one person; belly pork with scallop has the crunchy-crisp skin and the melt-in-the-mouth meat; roast halibut with mussel, bacon and clam cream could not be better. And that’s the thing: Mulcahy’s cooking could hardly be better, and it also offers incredible value for superb modern Irish food.
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