The Muddlers Club
There is nothing muddled about Gareth McCaughey’s cooking in The Muddlers Club. This sparkling modern food eats so clean – as professional chefs say – that every bite presents a new taste adventure for the senses, and McCaughey fashions his dishes with the precision of a jeweller. The menus read mute – venison, beetroot, artichoke; lamb, samphire, smoked aubergine; cheese, truffle, sourdough – but the dishes are mesmeric, and you quickly get lost in one taste bomb after another. That cheese course is emblematic of McCaughey’s faultless sense of taste: the cheeses are Ballylisk and Young Buck, the sourdough crackers are flavourful foils, the truffle honey is the anointing angel. It’s perfection, and so is everything else, one happy enlivening plate after the other. The staff are as sharp and charming as the cooking, and Muddlers is the club you want to be in.
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