It takes a family of artisan suppliers to make a great restaurant, and Daniel Hannigan has brought the best and brightest bunch of culinary siblings together to deliver the flavours he wants at Mister S. In addition to meticulous sourcing, his other secret agent is the fruit woods he uses, collected in County Wexford, which deliver sweet, natural notes, with smoke used as a highlighter. The eating is mighty: gambas with bisque sauce is one of the dishes of the year, a plate you wipe clean with your fingers. He rewrites the entire concept of cauliflower cheese, thanks to plump golden raisins, sharp capers, and Dan Hegarty’s stunning Comte cheese. A pork tomahawk steak is the only dish with an overt chemise of smoke, the pork sweet, velvety and curlicued with smoky notes. Cod with brown shrimp and curry is as masterly as smoked chicken with romesco. Desserts are faultless: apple and blackberry pavlova has every grace note and texture imaginable, whilst salted caramel tart with hazelnut ice cream is as rigorous and satisfying as it gets. The staff are smilingly charming, and value for money is really keen in pricey Dublin. Mister S is Mister Superlative.
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