Michael's Mount Merrion
Gaz Smith has the touch. He can make an osso bucco so good, you would swear his mama came from Bologna. But he’s also fiercely self-critical chef: the team in Michael’s spent a long time trying to get their pizzas to the point of perfection and, when they realised they couldn’t crack it to their own satisfaction, they took them off the menu. That mixture of intuition and analysis explains why you eat so well in Michael’s, the sort of comfortable restaurant with comforting food that you wished as in every Dublin suburb. Mr Smith’s other distinguishing factor is his superb seafood cookery: it’s worth the trek to Mount Merrion just to eat the best lobster of your life. Great, young, enthusiastic staff close the deal, and value for money is excellent.
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