Head chef Vish Sumputh has brought some Chapter One tricks with him in his move across town to Luna. The simple sounding dish of “rabbit, carrot, tarragon, girolles, gnocchi” hides the fact that the kitchen debones an entire rabbit then stuffs the legs with a farce that includes rabbit offal along with foie gras. They are then wrapped in bacon and roasted and served with carrot mousse, the girolles, and a slinky rabbit jus into which you can dunk the little pillows of gnocchi. This is showstopping stuff: virtuoso technique, but all at the service of delivering superb tastes and textures. The signature Luna pasta dishes are as fine as ever, the staff uniforms are as sharp as ever, and the room is one of the best in the city. Do note that the pre-theatre menus offer excellent value.
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