The glamour of the room and the slickness of the service tend to be the most talked-about aspects of John Farrell’s Luna restaurant. But with a major talent in the shape of head chef Hugh Higgins responsible for creating the excellent food, it’s time to turn your gaze away from the Louis Copeland threads and focus on the plate. Mr Higgins stays true to the restaurant’s template of a New York style Italian restaurant, which means no-holds-barred flavours: octopus salad with capers and spinach; beef ragu Bolognese; macaroni with n’duja; pork neck with polenta. The desserts are vivid and special: Luna toblerone; beetroot panna cotta with olive oil shortbread; baked alaska. manager Declan Maxwell directs the room with Toscanini-like control.
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