Cinnamon buns with coffee. Broccoli and cheddar soup with a jambon beurre house baguette. Roast chicken with black pudding stuffing and honeyed carrots. Does Jamie Dowling of Loko know how to push our taste buttons, or what? Does he understand the dishes that trigger the dopamine receptors in our brain, inundating us with feelings of wellness and reward, or what? He sure does, and what’s more Mr Dowling is always, restlessly, chasing after new delights. Loko food manages to be both comforting food – whole roast chicken with all the trimmings will make any weekend special – and challenging food, seen in perfectly pitched classics like the scallops and prawns with clams and smoked haddock in a saffron velouté. Loko has responded superbly to the challenges of recent times, refining, reimagining and delivering great food to happy customers, despite all the odds. Nik Dowling runs the room with commanding authority, and Jamie and the Loko team all work overtime, determined to deliver the most satisfying experience they possibly can.
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