The Lodge at Ashford Castle
Jonathan Keane has arrived. In truth, Mr Keane booked his ticket to the arrival venue years ago, when he first began to attract attention, as the chef in Westport’s Mill Race Hotel. His cooking was wildly ambitious, but in fact it was over-ambitious. he tried too hard. fast-forward a few years, and Mr Keane has found his voice in Wilde’s Restaurant, in The Lodge, sister-gaff to Ashford Castle. Where once every dish went over the top, nowadays the chef’s signature is all about control: cannelloni of king oyster mushrooms with sea grass; scallops ceviche with Goatsbridge trout caviar and a seaweed sourdough crisp that is the finest Communion wafer north of Galway; 72% chocolate pudding which is the Double Decker chocolate bar, made in heaven. Great cocktails, excellent staff, classy cooking.
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