Locks has been on a tumultuous ride for the last decade, changing chefs and owners quicker than you can say smoked trout and dilisk butter with homemade sourdough bread. But, over the last year, Locks has really locked down their formula, and chef Connor O’Dowd is now heading up a sleek, elegant, powerhouse of modern Irish cooking. That smoked trout and dilisk butter shows the contemporary and historical approach the kitchen favours: steak and kidney suet pudding with colcannon; crispy pig’s head with in-house black pudding, ray wing with chicken wings and girolles. The rib-eye steak for two is one of the best in town, there are more than a dozen good wines served by the glass, and the confidence and energy of this most elegant room on the canal is utterly winning.
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