In Galway’s Loam restaurant, chef-patron Enda McEvoy makes the illogical seem logical. Mr McEvoy serves up a taster of beef tenderloin. It looks like a prawn cracker, and eats like a prawn cracker. But it isn’t a prawn cracker. Then he will put peat in your pudding, alongside some black currant. Except, it isn’t peat. It isn’t the stuff that gets stuck to your boots. Welcome to Loam, where nothing is as it seems. The strange thing about this upside-down world, however, is not that the food in Loam is strange – it isn’t. in fact, the signature style of Loam is that the cooking is lush and sensual, and recent visits have revealed a kitchen which serves food that is, quite simply, magical. Loam cooking transcends the limits of terra madre, which is some kind of beautiful irony.
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