Danny Africano’s Lignum Restaurant, with Eurotoques young chef of the year Grainne Mullins working alongside the boss in the kitchen, simply blew away everyone who made it to this suave room, outside little Loughrea in East Galway. Mr Africano brings a Francis Ford Coppola, Baz Luhrman red-curtain-opera-style sense of production values to his food: every course is an event, a miniature drama in how it has been conceived, cooked – over wood embers, hence the name – plated and served. The menus give nothing away, simply reciting the core ingredients of the dish, but every detail of every plate is intensely wrought and superbly executed, allowing the purity of the ingredients to shine – it’s worth the trip to Loughrea just to eat the roast duck. Lignum is a new frontier for Irish eating.
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