The 2019 make-over of Damien Grey’s Liath has gifted us with a room that is simply gorgeous: this is one of the most handsome restaurant spaces. Grey has always understood that service is the emotional connection with the customer, and manager Niall O’Connor makes sure everything runs smooth as clockwork, as well as offering a fine concoction of alcohol-free drinks. Post-makeover, Liath food is better than ever, every dish an ode to joy, utilising rigorous, painstaking cooking techniques in the service of hedonistic transcendence, and that’s just the dish of carrot and soil, a concoction with a backstory so intricately constructed that it requires its own biographer. So, what is Mr Grey attempting to achieve? Transcendence, no less.
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