There is a certain genius in what Elaine Murphy has created with the menus in the made-over Legal Eagle, across the street from the main entrance to the Law Library at Dublin’s Four Courts. She has plundered the foods of Old Ireland – pickled eggs, batch loaf; haslet; spiced beef; suet pudding with swede; jelly and ice cream – and rearranged and revitalised them to create something irresistible. ‘A truly wondrous thing’ is how a food-loving friend described the crisp sandwich, for example. Yes, the crisp sandwich. Goodness knows what he might have thought of the veal heart croquette with duck egg, or the Irish flatbread with oxtail ragu. The ‘Eagle is a brilliant piece of conceptualising, where the dishes taste even better than you had hoped. Only pity is they don’t have Cadet Red Lemonade.
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