When Derry Clarke of L’Ecrivain spoke at Galway’s Food on the Edge, he talked about the family’s food business, John Clarke & Sons, and how his Dad, DJ, would always judge the cheeses they sold first by sight, then by smell, extracting a sample with the cheese trier before examining it and sniffing it to check its maturity. “And that’s the way that I judge a dish to this day,” said Clarke, proving that the apple never falls far from the tree. Being born into a fine food retailer has given Mr Clarke not only the nose for running a top class restaurant, but also the nous, and he has kept L’Ecrivain at the top of the pile for three decades now. He has done this by cooking great food, of course, but the secret of L’Ecrivain is that it is always welcoming, warm and professional.
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