On July 7th 2019, L’Ecrivain Restaurant will celebrate 30 years of service to the people of Dublin. Those three decades have seen Derry and Sallyanne Clarke and their crew maintain a fastidious level of excellence through countless lunches and dinners – one McKennas Guide editor has eaten here 40 times, and never had an indifferent meal. Clarke’s success boils down to the fact that his sophisticated cooking is underpinned by a ruddy, rustic authenticity, as you would expect of a guy who loves sausage sandwiches with YR sauce, or a bag of chips with extra salt and vinegar. Like the late Paul Bocuse, Clarke’s food is slick but hearty, and anchored in tradition – Kilkeel crab with kohlrabi and macadamia nuts; lamb rump with globe artichokes and samphire; peach mousse with milk chocolate ganache. L’Ecrivain is one of Dublin’s classic destinations, and a visit is always a special occasion.
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