Over more than two decades, Pascal Rossignol and his crew at Le Caveau have achieved their ambition, to discover and then to offer us bottles from “winegrowers who work their land sustainably and produce wines filled with purity and life.”
Purity, and life. This sounds like a contradictory ambition, yet anyone familiar with the Le Caveau list of producers will know instantly that it is precisely what one would say about the wines of Thierry Puzelat, or Karine and Nicolas Mirouze, or Iago Bitarishvili. The wines explode not simply with vivid tastes and textures, they explode with philosophy, and place, and passion.
It is worth remembering that when Mr Rossignol and his team, with their passionate advocacy on behalf of the one-time-underdogs, first began to introduce natural wines to the market, many people scoffed, laughed, and ridiculed them. Thankfully, they persisted, and they are the people who effected this sea change in attitudes and in drinking habits. Their achievement is truly formidable and, just as importantly, their achievement in bringing these wines to our tables means that every time we open a bottle, we get to glimpse – and then taste – the true majesty of the culture of wine.
Purity, and life. That’s it.
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