Adam Lynas and Eliza Vignolle cook the best Mexican food in Ireland, in a little up-the-stairs room beside a Mace Express in the centre of Belfast. The setting may be unprepossessing, but there is nothing timid about the chilli-hot flavours that Mr Lynas wrings from his ingredients. Working with the superlative Nino Blanco tortillas from Tipperary gives him a great advantage – these are peerless corn tortillas – and the chef exploits their potential at every step. Using Irish and European ingredients forces Mr Lynas to make some changes – he uses mozzarella instead of Mexican queso, for example – but the cooking is otherwise so true, so authentic, that he makes it all work. Great margaritas and mezcals bookend truly exciting cooking, and La Taqueria is mighty, mighty fun.
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