You had to move fast to keep up with Niall Sabongi in 2017. His little central Dublin restaurant empire mushroomed from the Temple Bar fish shack Klaw, which begat Klaw Poké, on Capel Street, which begat Klaw, The Seafood Café Store, on Fownes Street. Amidst all this activity, Mr Sabongi held fast to the core truth of his restaurants: eating fish and shellfish should always be fun. His rooms are crowded, quixotic, and great craic, and his food is ace: torched oysters; crab mac n’cheese; seafood chowder with a bottle of shuck n’suck; brown crab on rye toasts; octopoke; lobster roll with hand-cut fries; salt cod croquettes. The Klaw trinity make it look easy to source and cook superb seafood, and they sure make it easy to enjoy it.
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