James Street South
Niall McKenna is the great philosopher of the restaurant business. He could coast by on the superb food served in his fleet of excellent restaurants and cafés – there were four Belfast destinations at last count, and he hasn’t stopped yet. But it’s his work as teacher and culinary dramaturge that sets Mr McKenna apart. His apprenticeship scheme means he has solved the problem of recruitment hat others just waffle on about, and it also means he has a steady flow of talent into his kitchens to maintain those sky-high standards, James Street South is the original of the species, and remains our favourite, a great, lean room designed for great eating: scallops with squid ink mayo; corned ox tongue; beef fillet with peppered brisket; john dory with brown crab butter.
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