In fusing his two adjacent restaurants - James Street South and Bar + Grill - into the single entity of James St, Niall McKenna has managed to double the horsepower of this sleek vehicle, and James St is a new culinary hot rod for Belfast. McKenna and head chef David Gilmour have disassembled every dish on the menu, identified the salient flavour elements, then rebuilt the dish with those flavours right upfront, and aimed directly at your taste buds: this food is always optimising. The sheer vavavoom of the grub is daunting: you could order crab on toast, followed by Peter Hannan’s rib eye, and finish with an apple crumble soufflé, and you will have to work hard to recall when you last enjoyed such depthless deliciousness. After seventeen years, Niall McKenna is showing he can run with the young bucks, and he is serving the food of his life right now. The energy in the room is daunting, and a great Belfast trailblazer is blazing a brand new trail.
Megabites Sign Up Here!
Sign up for our Megabites Newsletter, a blog which brings you all the latest contemporary news of the best food and food people in Ireland, including all that’s new on the Wild Atlantic Way.