Hugo’s Gina Murphy is one of Ireland’s most distinguished restaurateurs, a peerless professional who animates the restaurant with her energy, her good taste, her generosity, her wise experience and her sense of drama and occasion. You just step through the door of Hugo’s and you are immediately in another world, a place of leisure and pleasure, a place where people look after you, and are determined to do their best so that you will have the best time. Chef Peter Byrne’s cooking then amplifies all of these qualities, with its confident mastery of great Irish ingredients, abetted by top-notch technique: McCarthy’s black pudding and red onion tarte fine; Annagassan smoked salmon with dressed crab and buttermilk; black sole with samphire and pink fir potatoes; Wicklow venison with roast parsnips. This is well-judged, well-tempered cooking, and it pairs beautifully with the wines on an expert list. Hugo’s is a grown-up restaurant, run by grown-up professionals, and it has been a place of joy and delight since 2007.
Photos credit @byrnechef
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