Gina Murphy’s delectable restaurant has quietly carved a place for itself in the crowded St Stephen’s Green food zone. Ms Murphy likes a style of cooking that offers the somewhat unlikely mixture of comfort cooking that is also punky and funky – a poached pear that is then charred and served with St Tola goat’s cheese curd; the pickled carrots with pork cheek beignet; the chorizo and herb sauce with grilled chicken; the kidney and liver stuffing with saddle of rabbit. This is lush cooking, underpinned by a mastery of the various detail which anchor the flavours. The room is a beauty – welcoming; calm; comforting; a true restaurant space – and Gina Murphy is as good at front of house as it gets.
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