House of Plates
Steadily and surely, Barry Ralph and his crew in House of Plates are emerging as one of the most enigmatic and enchanting food destinations on the west coast. They are prodigiously hard working people, so the kitchen work is preceded by foraging, growing, collecting, brewing, and sourcing from County Mayo’s 5-star artisans. With this formidable template propelling his creativity, Mr Ralph demonstrates an expansive, all-seeing confidence – here is a cook who can make ramen as if he was reared in Tokyo, and fashion a bao bun as if he was educated in Seoul. Mr Ralph sweats the small stuff, adding lemon and brandy to the Marie Rose sauce for his lobster roll, pairing apricot and sage to stuff a chicken breast, using Achill sea salt for the caramel sauce that finishes his celebrated sticky toffee pudding. This is expertly conceived and executed cooking, from a restaurant that offers a total food experience. House of Plates is a house of magic.
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