There is a rule in Dublin dining that goes like this: what flies in D2 and D4 won’t fly in D6. D6 demands its own restaurant culture. Successful D6 destinations need to be hip and cool, but they also need to say: this is D6 neighbourfood for the D6 neighbourhood. We don’t know if Chloe and Niall thought about this much before they opened Host, but what we do know is this: Host is the D6 neighbourfood neighbourhood restaurant par excellence. Host is cool, but not too cool for school. The food is expert, but it never shows its own smartness. And the staff are hip, but they are also hip to good service. So, grab a stool at the counter or at the high tables, and enjoy how the kitchen riffs on a series of ideas: agro dolce snacks to make the mouth water; stunningly fine and robust pasta dishes – the pumpkin cappellaci is flat-out fantastic – sweet, fired-up meat cookery. Let them introduce you to some sangiovese from Juice Asylum or an Austrian Zweigelt and, like everyone else in Ranelagh, you will be back to Host next week.
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