You can read the runes of Dublin dining just by watching what Joe Macken is up to. With Hey Donna, this serial restaurateur has made-over his former Jo’Burger on Lower Rathmines Road, and swapped out the burgers for an all-day Middle Eastern smorgasbord that runs from a breakfast of Velvet Cloud yogurt with pomegranates to Berber spiced lamb chops and sumac sweet potato chips. As you expect with Mr Macken, it’s all done with wit and élan, from the bricolage-style of the room to the fact that your bill arrives in a jam jar with a boiled sweet. With wines on tap, most cocktails under a tenner and lots of plates to share, Macken has carefully pitched the pricing for those who are strapped by a mortgage, or just young and hard-up.
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