GrowHQ is not alone in its pursuit of a ‘plot-to-plate’ ideal – most of Ireland's restaurants have umbilical relationships with gardens and growers. But GHQ is fascinating because they built the supply side – the fields, polytunnels and vegetable beds – before they built the bricks and mortar, and what a fine example of bricks and mortar it is, a welcoming double-height space with a large glazed wall that washes the room with light. Head chef JB Dubois takes the bounty of the fields outside his kitchen and riffs on his produce with dizzying creativity, especially his Hero Platter presentations of seasonal vegetables, which sees them cooked and served five different ways. Lovely wines, great weekend markets and, of course, often it’s pretty impossible to get a table.
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