Waterford’s GrowHQ is not alone in its assiduous pursuit of a ‘plot-to-plate’ ideal – most of the restaurants featured in our annual 100 Best Restaurants have umbilical relationships with gardens and growers. But GHQ is fascinating because the centre and its restaurant have grown out of the pursuit of an idea – get people to grow their own veg – and an ideal – get people to eat well and live well by growing their own veg. GHQ built the supply side before it built the bricks and mortar, and what a fine example of bricks and mortar it is, a welcoming double-height space with a large glazed wall that washes the room with light. Head chef JB Dubois takes the bounty of the fields outside the kitchen and riffs on his produce with dizzying creativity: you will never believe that you could cook courgettes so many different ways.
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